Ban Jelačić Square, Zagreb, Visitor Guide & Things to Do Nearby

Ban Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) is the main square of Zagreb, Croatia, and the place where the Upper Town and Kaptol meet the lower town. It takes its name from the 19th century governor whose statue on horseback stands at its centre, and it is the spot locals pick when they say they will meet in town.

The story behind it

The square grew up in the gap between the two medieval hills of Gradec and Kaptol, and over time became the heart of the modern city. It is named after Ban Josip Jelačić, remembered for abolishing serfdom in 1848 and for calling the first elections to the Croatian Parliament. His monument was put up in the 1860s, taken down under the communist authorities after the Second World War, and returned to its place in 1990.

A popular myth says the position of a horse's legs shows how its rider died. In Jelačić's case it does not apply, since he died in Zagreb in 1859 after years of poor health. The other famous story is about the Manduševac spring. Legend says a thirsty soldier asked a girl named Manda to scoop up some water for him, and the Croatian word for that, zagrabiti, gave the city its name. It is a legend rather than proven etymology, but locals love it. The spring supplied the town with drinking water until the end of the 19th century.

What to look for

• The bronze statue of Jelačić on his horse, which locals know as the place to meet "pod repom", under the horse's tail.
• The Manduševac fountain on the eastern side of the square, built over the old spring from the legend of Manda.
• The public clock where Zagreb residents say "let's meet under the clock", one of the most popular arrangements in the city.
• The mix of building styles around the edges, where trams pass by and the streets of the Upper Town rise behind you.

Tips for your visit

• The square is open air and free to wander at any time. Ten to twenty minutes is enough to look around, longer if you stop for a coffee.
• Early morning is calm for photographs, while late afternoon and evening show the square at its liveliest.
• In winter it becomes one of the main stages of the Advent market, so expect crowds and lights. Check current dates before you plan around it.
• The cathedral, the Dolac market and the Upper Town are all a short walk away, so the square works well as the start of a longer stroll.

See it on a quest

Highlights of Zagreb: Scenic Spots reaches the square on foot as one stop of a longer route through the city centre. The app tells you about each place as you arrive and sets a puzzle in what is in front of you. One ticket covers the whole group.

The Lost Love of Old Zagreb suits you if you like a story with your sightseeing. You walk from stop to stop, hear about the places you pass, and solve a puzzle on the spot. One ticket covers the whole group.

Zagreb essentials: easy itinerary is a relaxed way to take in the square along with other central sights. You start whenever you like, with no guide and no group to join, and the app explains each place and gives you a puzzle to solve. One ticket covers the whole group.