Wine Institute, Funchal, Visitor Guide & Things to Do Nearby

The Wine Institute in Funchal is the regional body that looks after Madeira wine, alongside the island's embroidery and handicrafts. It matters because Madeira's wine, shaped by long sea voyages and heat, is one of the best-known things the island ever sent to the world, and this is the institution that guards its name and quality.

The story behind it

The story of Madeira wine starts in the age of discoveries. In the 15th and 16th centuries ships stopped at Madeira to load supplies, and barrels of wine were part of the cargo. The tale goes that on long voyages, including ones to India, the barrels sat in hot holds and crossed the equator more than once. When they came back, the wine had changed for the better, with new flavours and more depth.

Merchants took note. Wines were sent on round trips on purpose, a practice known as vinho da roda. Later, producers found they did not need the sea at all. In the canteiro system the wine ages slowly in the warm attics of the island's buildings. The estufagem system, which heats the wine in controlled conditions, was developed to get similar results much faster as demand grew.

What to look for

• The grape names on a Madeira label, such as Sercial, Verdelho, Boal and Malvasia, which run roughly from the driest style to the sweetest.
• The age statements on bottles in shops nearby, which tell you how long the wine has matured.
• The roofs and upper floors of older Funchal buildings, and the thought that many once served as warm attics for ageing wine.
• The everyday working side of the place: this is an institution that regulates and promotes, so the interest lies in its role rather than in a grand showpiece facade.

Tips for your visit

• Plan a short stop of ten to fifteen minutes, since this is an institution rather than a classic sightseeing attraction. Check current opening hours and whether visitors are admitted before you plan to go inside.
• Morning or late afternoon is more comfortable for walking in Funchal, when the heat is lower.
• If you want to taste Madeira, the wine lodges and shops in the centre of town are the place to do it, and the story above will make the glass more interesting.
• Wear comfortable shoes, as Funchal has plenty of slopes and cobbled streets.

See it on a quest

The Wine Institute is one stop on Funchal Murder Mystery: In Broad Daylight, a self-guided walk through the city. You reach the place on foot as part of a longer route, the app tells you about it when you arrive, and you solve a puzzle on the spot. It is a more lively way to take in Madeira's wine story than reading a plaque. There is no guide and no group to join, so you can start whenever suits you. One ticket covers the whole group.