Frauenkirche, Esslingen, Esslingen am Neckar, Visitor Guide & Things to Do Nearby

The Frauenkirche in Esslingen am Neckar is a Gothic church dedicated to St Mary, known for its richly carved south portals, its stained glass and its tower. It was built by the townspeople of Esslingen over a long stretch of the late Middle Ages and still stands as one of the finest medieval buildings in the town.

The story behind it

The reason for building the Frauenkirche was partly a matter of control. Esslingen's oldest church, the town church of St Dionys, belonged to the cathedral chapter of Speyer, so the townspeople did not have it fully in their own hands. A new church of their own was the answer.

The new building grew out of an existing chapel dedicated to St Mary, which explains the dedication to the Virgin. Like many Gothic churches it took generations to complete, and its sculpture and glass reflect the care the town put into it.

What to look for

• The two grand doors on the south side are the highlight of the exterior, and their carvings tell the life of the Virgin Mary.
• Above the doors, look for the scene of the Last Judgement, which would have been a powerful sight for medieval visitors.
• Inside, the stained glass windows reward a slow look, especially when the daylight is strong.
• Step back and look up at the tower, where the stonework of the spire is carved in fine openwork Gothic style.

Tips for your visit

• Allow about 20 to 30 minutes for the church itself, longer if you like to study carvings and glass.
• Visit on a bright day, ideally in the daytime, when the light brings out the colours of the windows and the detail of the portals.
• Check current opening hours before you go if you want to see the interior, as church access can vary.
• The church sits within the old town of Esslingen, so it combines easily with a longer walk past the half-timbered houses and streets around it.

See it on a quest

The Frauenkirche is one stop on The Devils Onion in Esslingen am Neckar. You reach it on foot as part of a longer route through the old town. The app tells you about each place as you arrive and sets a puzzle based on what is in front of you, which makes you look properly at the portals and details instead of just passing by. It is a paid quest, and one ticket covers the whole group.