The Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina, Pisa, Bezoekersgids & wat te doen in de buurt

Santa Maria della Spina is a small Gothic church on the south bank of the Arno in Pisa, covered in marble pinnacles, gables and carved niches. It was built to house a relic said to be a thorn from Christ's crown of thorns, and it is often counted among the most delicate Gothic buildings in Italy. It sits right at the water's edge, so you can see it in a few minutes on any walk along the river.

The story behind it

The church began in the early 13th century as a modest oratory beside the river, dedicated to Santa Maria. It got its name, and its grand makeover, in the 14th century, when the thorn relic arrived in Pisa and the little chapel was enlarged and richly decorated. Spina is simply the Italian word for thorn. The sculptors who worked on the exterior came from the circle of the Pisano family of artists, who shaped much of Pisa's medieval sculpture.

The church stood so close to the river that floods and damp were a constant threat. In 1871 it was taken apart and rebuilt stone by stone on a higher spot, which is why it now sits on the embankment instead of at the old water level. The district across the river is called Kinzica, after a local legend. It tells how a young noblewoman, Kinzica de' Sismondi, spotted Saracen raiders attacking in the night and raised the alarm. The bells rang, the city's defenders rushed to arms, and the attackers were said to have fled. Treat it as a legend, but it is still told in Pisa.

What to look for

• The crowded roofline of spires, pinnacles and pointed gables, which gives the little building its lace-like look.
• The statues set in small tabernacles on the facade and sides, carved in the Pisano tradition.
• The contrast of pale marble and darker inlaid bands, best seen up close on the walls facing the river.
• The view from the opposite embankment, where the church sits just above the water with the Arno's curve behind it.

Tips for your visit

• Allow 15 to 30 minutes. The building is small, so most of the time goes on walking around it and photographing the details.
• Late afternoon light is flattering on the marble, and the embankment is quieter early in the morning.
• The church has been used for exhibitions, so check current opening hours and access if you want to go inside.
• It is on the riverside walk, within reach of the other bridges and the old centre of Pisa, so it fits easily into a longer stroll.

See it on a quest

Pisa Highlights: The 7 Wonders of the City takes you to the church on foot as one stop of a longer route through Pisa. The app tells you about each place as you arrive, and you solve a puzzle based on what is in front of you. It is a paid quest, and one ticket covers the whole group.

Romantic Pisa: The Curse of Rosa is a good fit for a riverside setting like this one. You reach the church as part of a walk through the city, hear about it on the spot, and work out a puzzle before moving on. It is a paid quest, and one ticket covers the whole group.