Piazza San Carlo, Turin, Guida per visitatori e cosa fare nei dintorni

Piazza San Carlo is a large baroque square in the centre of Turin, Italy, often called the city's drawing room. Porticoes, historic cafes and two near-identical churches frame a bronze statue of Duke Emmanuel Philibert of Savoy. It is one of the best places in Turin to get a sense of the city's royal past.

The story behind it

The square was laid out in the 17th century as part of Turin's growth under the Savoy dukes, when the city was being shaped into a proper capital. Its uniform arcaded buildings give it a calm, orderly look that still stands out among the streets nearby. At the southern end, the twin churches of San Carlo Borromeo and Santa Cristina face the square side by side.

The centrepiece is the equestrian monument to Emmanuel Philibert, nicknamed "Ironhead" and a 16th-century duke who made Turin his capital. Locals call it the bronze horse. The detail most people miss is in the pose: he is sliding his sword back into its scabbard and the horse is held firmly in check. It is a statue about the end of a war and the coming of peace, not about a battle charge.

What to look for

• Look closely at the duke's hands on the bronze statue, where you can see him sheathing his sword, a sign of peace rather than victory.
• Compare the two churches at the southern end of the square, which look like twins but are not perfectly identical.
• Walk under the uniform porticoes that run along the sides and notice how the long rhythm of arches makes the square feel like one open room.
• Glance at the historic cafe fronts under the arcades, which belong to the square's long tradition of coffee and conversation.

Tips for your visit

• The square is open to everyone and free to walk through. Allow 15 to 30 minutes, or longer if you stop for a coffee under the arcades.
• Early morning is quietest for photographs, while the evening light and the buzz of the cafes suit a slower visit.
• The churches can usually be visited, but check current opening hours and any rules about visiting during services.
• The square is an easy walk from Piazza Castello and from Porta Nuova station, so it fits well into a day on foot around the centre.

See it on a quest

Playing Ghosts of Turin: The Hidden Spell is a good way to see Piazza San Carlo with a darker, more atmospheric eye. You reach the square on foot as one stop of a longer route through the area, the app tells you about each place as you arrive, and you solve a puzzle in what is in front of you. It is a paid quest, and one ticket covers the whole group.

Murder Mystery: Death in the Shadows in Turin suits you if you would rather treat the city's streets as a case to crack. You walk between the stops yourself, hear the story of each place as you get there, and work out a puzzle on the spot. It is a paid quest, and one ticket covers the whole group.