Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome, Guida per visitatori e cosa fare nei dintorni

Santa Maria in Trastevere is a basilica in the Trastevere district of Rome, traditionally counted among the oldest churches in the city. It is known for its golden medieval mosaics, its Romanesque bell tower and the lively square in front of it, which is the social heart of the neighbourhood.

The story behind it

Tradition says a Christian place of worship stood here as early as the 3rd century, which makes this one of the earliest churches in Rome connected with the Virgin Mary. The building you see today is largely the result of a major rebuilding in the 12th century, and the Romanesque bell tower dates from that same period.

A well-loved legend explains the choice of site. It says a spring of oil flowed from the ground here in ancient times, and early Christians read it as a sign of the coming of Christ. Whatever the truth behind the story, the church has stood at the centre of Trastevere life for centuries.

What to look for

• The mosaic on the façade shows Mary seated on a throne with the child in her arms, with a row of ten women carrying lamps on either side.
• The slim Romanesque bell tower rises above the roofline and is a good landmark for finding your way back through the lanes.
• Inside, look at the gleaming mosaics around the apse, which cover the upper part of the church in gold.
• Notice the ancient columns along the nave, which were reused from older Roman buildings and show how the church was assembled from earlier pieces of the city.

Tips for your visit

• Allow about 20 to 30 minutes for the church itself, and more if you want to sit in the square afterwards.
• Entry to churches in Rome is usually free, but check current opening hours, and dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered.
• Come in the morning for a calmer visit, or in the evening when the square fills with locals and the mosaic is lit.
• The narrow streets around the piazza are full of cafés and small restaurants, and the Janiculum hill is a short climb away for views over the city.

See it on a quest

The church is one stop on Hidden Gems of Trastevere: Return Home, a self-guided route through the neighbourhood. You reach the basilica on foot as part of a longer walk, the app tells you about the place as you arrive, and you solve a puzzle based on what is in front of you. It is a good way to see the streets around the square rather than just the church. It is a paid quest, and one ticket covers the whole group.